The Little Grape That Could
Château de Candale
St. Émilion Grand Cru Red Bordeaux Blend 2005
We met & visited a number of Bordeaux producers while 2005 was still in the tank or just into barrel.
In talking with Winemaker-Owners about the 2005 vintage, you could see the twinkle in their eye as they were asked questions. They knew they had Bordeaux magic for the first time in five years.
We tasted this at what was deemed an “Affordable Bordeaux Tasting.” This was on the higher end of that tasting at $35. It is delivering a little better than its young expectation and the jewel to date from that tasting.
With and without protein, the 05 Chateau de Candale moved between 92-93.
The nose reveals; warm alcohol, immersed fruits of; black raspberries, blackberries, mulberries, dark cherries, poached/slightly baked, dark cherries, dark spices, purple fruit, cola mix, sweet tarriness, anise to black licorice, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon & vanilla, dark, rich, candied, forest floor, fresh & dry tobacco, graphite, slight, moist clay, stones, dry, crushed rock chunks, whiff of bay leaf & sage, dry stems, pepper quality with candied, dark, dark red, purple, blue with violets & lavender.
This is a very good first look at this 2005. God willing, I have another look in on bottle two of three in another five years. This 05 has another 15 plus years of good drinking ahead with proper storage.
The body is full, tarry with big, sticky, chewy tannins. Baked/poached, floral fruits of; black raspberries, blackberries, mulberries, dark cherries, black plum, pomegranate, dark spices with a heavy, heated presence, purple fruit, cola mix, sweet tarriness, anise to black licorice, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon & vanilla, dark, rich, candied, forest floor, fresh & dry tobacco, loads of graphite, slight, moist clay, stones, dry, crushed rock chunks, dry top soils, whiff of bay leaf & sage, dry stems, muted eucalyptus, pepper quality with candied, dark, dark red, purple, blue with violets & lavender. The acidity is round & full just holding, for me, the slightly higher ABV in check. The long, heavy, dark, well knitted, more earth/spice dominated finish is showing the quality of the vintage. Yet, it still needs more time to be its best.
Photos of; Chateau de Candale, harvested Merlot fruit, recent buyers of Chateau de Candale - Thibaut Decoster and Magali Decoster and their barrel room. — 5 years ago
Georg Breuer
Berg Schlossberg Riesling 2008
My notes seem a little lacking here. I believe this was the last dry riesling opened in the night and I didn't have much of it. All I could say was this - Whoa. High pressure wine. Superbly elegant balanced. 97.
NB: MFW gave this wine a whopping 99 pts. I'm gonna leave their tasting notes here to make up for my lack thereof.
This offers a breathtaking yet finely sizzled nose made of peach, pear, bergamot, sea breeze, flowery elements, mint and flint stone. The wine proves superbly elegant and refined on the palate. It develops density and a compact structure coupled to juicy complexity. Salty elements add freshness to the gorgeously focused palate. The finish is all about airiness, precision, focus and elegance. The overall balance is that found in the finest of Clos Sainte Hune or some of the mythical bottles of Künstler from the 1990s. This is a modern-day legend in the making! — 6 years ago
Château Cantemerle
Haut-Médoc Red Bordeaux Blend 2006
30+ minute decant and could have used a little more. Pretty much an average Bordeaux. Nose is the best and the finish the worst. Describe your favorite Bordeaux and then pair everything back 3-4 times; that’s this wine. Decent value at £25, but unmemorable in every regard. If someone asks me if I have had this in 3yrs I probably wouldn’t be able to recall it, hence the need for Delectable :). Somehow I have one more bottle of this exact vintage in the U.S. Not sure how I acquired that. — 6 years ago
Seavey Vineyard
Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
The nose reveals; dark currants, blackberries, heavy black plum, black raspberries, dark cherries and some blueberries. Black tea, expresso roast, anise, crushed dry rocks, big vanilla, clove, a little nutmeg, dry underbrush, sweet tarry notes, leather, woody notes with dark fresh & withering flower bouquet.
The body is big and lush. The tannins are big, meaty and tarry. Very dark currants. Blackberries, heavy black plum, black raspberries, dark cherries and some blueberries & strawberries as they open up. Black tea, expresso roast, steeped fruit tea, anise, crushed dry rocks, dry clay, big graphite, big vanilla, dark spice, clove, light dry herbs, a little nutmeg, dry underbrush, sweet tarry notes, leather, cedar with violets dark fresh & withering flower bouquet. The acidity is round, fresh and beautiful. The big, long, well balanced finish is excellent and look forward to having this in 15-20 years. This one will be a stunner!
Photos of, the barn where they make wine and hosts tastings, our private tasting area inside William’s old office. William desk and their outside terrace area.
Producer history & notes...Seavey Vineyard is located along Conn Valley Road in the eastern hills of Napa Valley, about 15 minutes from the valley floor.
This historical property was originally a cattle ranch. However, records indicate grapes were planted on some of the hillsides as early as the 1870’s. The stone dairy barn, still in existence, was built in 1881.
William & Mary Seavey purchased this property in 1979. The estate was originally founded by the Franco-Swiss Farming Company in 1881 which, closed down when Phylloxera destroyed their grape vines and the Volstead Act (Prohibition) went into effect. At the time of their purchase, they were a horse and cattle ranch. They quickly planted the slopes with grapes and initially sold their fruit to Raymond Vineyards. They have never purchased grapes, all their wine is made from estate grapes. Their vineyards are separated into 20 plus individual blocks.
Today, the property is about 200 total acres of which, 40 acres are planted to vine. Their hillside vineyards produce low yields of rich concentrated fruit. A small block of Chardonnay grows in a cooler lower part of their property. Besides grapes, they also raise cattle which are used to graze the hillsides. They feed the vineyard with the cattle cuttings. In 2003, they were one of the first Napa wineries to install solar.
Mary passed away in 2008 and William died in 2016. There daughter Dorie returned to the family business and now oversees the winery operations. Her brother Arthur also handles national and some small international sales, primarily to restaurants. However, most of their wine is sold direct to consumers.
Seavey’s first commercial vintage was released in 1990 a year after they renovated the stone dairy barn into a working winery. Today this stone building is the centerpiece of the property and is where tastings are hosted.
Since 2011, Jim Duane has been their day to day Winemaker. He’s worked at Robert Mondavi and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. It should also be noted that Philippe Melka Winemaker/Consultant has been with Seavey since 1995...one of Philippe’s two initial wine making jobs in the Napa Valley were with Seavey and Lail Vineyards.
Seavy makes about 3,200 cases annually depending on what mother nature brings. They make around two hundred cases of Chardonnay, slightly more Merlot and the rest is of the production is comprised of their Caravina and Estate Cabernets.
— 7 years ago
Rasa Vineyards
QED Walla Walla Valley Red Blend 2011
My 2020 rating and my 2023 rating (below).
This wine is 9 years old but it’s still really too young to drink. I think it will take another decade before it mellows out. This is the most intense GSM I’ve ever tasted! — Or rather, it’s an SMG with a little V. Mint and oregano on the nose. Perhaps a little tobacco, too. unripe cherries on the front, and they transition into a complex but astringent tannic structure at the mid-palate. These are redeemed by some softer tannins at the end. Nice finish with some mineral high notes. Frankly, this wine is pretty harsh in its current state. I’m giving it a 9.0 based on its potential. I’m going to try to put another one of these bottles down for another five years, and I’ll report back. Potentially this could be a 9.5 in a decade.
———
It’s late in 2023 and I’m checking in on this wine again. I can’t believe how much is changed in three years. I’m not increasing my rating though. This wine seems mature now, and it may be starting on the downhill side. I thought it would last longer, but I stored it suboptimally by mistake
The herbal notes on the nose are gone replaced by intense cherries. The tobacco is more pronounced. The fruit on the front has mostly faded. The tannic structure remains — however its astringency has mellowed. But the finish is a bit stronger — with some mineral notes that remind of the wines from volcanic soils. Long finish. I’m not gonna change my rating —distinctly different but still very nice.
Yikes! It’s fading in the decanter as I write this! Yes, I got to this bottle just in time! — 5 years ago
Serafin Père et Fils
Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Nice summer red , fruit forward, that needs a little patience after opening. Probably not worth laying down for 10 years but it could easily handle it. I suggest open for an hour to best enjoy. Cherry comes through. Maybe lavender — 5 years ago
Château Yvonne
Saumur Rézin Chenin Blanc
Heck yeah, chenin! Chenin might be my favorite white grape- it made the first white wine that blew my mind, and it is consistently delicious.
This particular offering showcases its versatility with an oxidative style, more savory and rich. The acid is plentiful and enjoyable, mouthwatering even. I could not stop pouring more; frankly, it was better than the food I ate with it.
I only hesitate to recommend it due to its polarizing nature. — 6 years ago
Domaine Lionnet
Terre Brûlée Cornas Syrah 2012
Cornas wines are a gem that I need to seek out more. They are bold, unsubtle expressions of what could be the world’s greatest red grape - Syrah. The best examples are extraordinary. As a friend recently observed, my generation could embrace Cornas the way my parent’s generation has embraced Bordeaux.
Domaine Lionnet is a tiny two person operation with just 2.2 tiny hectares. Terre Brûlée is something dense and rich, spectacular, and completely unostentatious and pure. The nose has generous blackberry and violet. The palette is supported with strong tannin and upfront flavors of blackberry and raspberry and with an underlay of meat, olive, and iodine.
The balance is what makes the beauty. — 7 years ago
Soter Vineyards
Mineral Springs Ranch Pinot Noir 2010
I’m not sure Delectable knows which wine this is- 2010 MSR white label; a small low yield “crown of the hill” parcel of the estate. Been saving this guy and holy mother of god did it reward. I venture a guess that at 8 years old it could be in its “prime” window but it absolutely could go another decade. This wine made me a little sad that we might not get another cold vintage in Oregon. It was so stunning and so pure it took my breath away. Not an understatement in any way. — 7 years ago
Denis Jeandeau
Viré-Clessé Chardonnay 2013
Really nicely performed. Definitely could compete with Bourgogne blanc and village wines of some serious producers. The vintage lends a little tropicality to this and it gestures at elegant indulgence in a nice way. Feels like you're drinking good winemaking, if that makes sense. — 8 years ago
Sonoma Vineyards
Alexander's Crown Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon 1977
Gifted about two months ago by @Matthew Beckman, with a requirement that I report back when opened. Thought about opening over the holidays, but with the "Selected for the 1981 Presidential Inauguration" band , how could I not wait until Jan 20th? Condition was outstanding with a fill just into the neck. Cork was a little soft, but came out intact with barely any wine incursion. Color was medium ruby red and quite clear. Nose was a just bit bretty to start, but some cedar and tobacco came through in time, then more of a green pepper note. Not much fruit left, but a very good showing for a 39 year old Sonoma Cab. Label indicates 100% Cab, 13.2% ABV, and of course Rodney Strong as winemaker. Thanks Matt! 🍷 — 8 years ago
Fanti
Brunello di Montalcino Sangiovese 2004
Meat sauce night part II. Always even more complex after it refrigerates overnight.
The nose expresses, ruby, lush, floral fruits of; blackberries, both black & regular plums, dark cherries, black raspberries with strawberries & creamy raspberries along the edge of the glass. Still a good presence of toasted barrel, anise to black licorice, vanilla, dark spice, nutmeg & clove, sweet tarriness, French expresso roast, mixed berry cola, used leather, dry & fresh tobacco leafs, sandstone & limestone, black pepper, herbaceousness-sage dominate, graphite, shades of menthol & mint, underbrush, dry clay, dry crushed rocks, stones, rich, turned, dark earth with bright, fresh & candied florals that are; dark, red, purple framed in violets & a field of lavender.
The body is round, juicy, clean & full. Wire to wire beautiful on the palate. The tension, structure, length and balance have hit second gear but, still needs more time in the bottle to flourish. This is bottling that will long haul to 30 years plus with proper storage. I will be saving at least one bottle to that age. The tannins are still sizable & meaty. Ruby, ripe, lush, candied/floral fruits of; dark currants, blackberries, both black & regular plums, slight sour/tart dark cherries, black raspberries with strawberries & creamy raspberries. Still a good presence of toasted barrel/shavings, anise to black licorice, dark spice with heat, sweet tarriness, French expresso roast, bright mixed berry cola/licorice, caramel, dark chocolate, nutmeg, clove, vanillin, used leather, dry & fresh tobacco leafs, sandstone & limestone, black pepper, herbaceousness-sage dominate, graphite, shades of menthol & mint, underbrush, dry clay, dry crushed rocks, stones, rich, turned, dark earth dry top soil with bright, fresh & candied florals that are; dark, red, purple framed in violets & field of lavender. The acidity is a cool stream & light on its feet. The finish is well balanced, elegant, nicely kittened that goes from ripe & juicy into dry tannins, earth & spice persisting endlessly.
The only faults that stick out to me is the ABV (a little hot) & believe they could dial back the amount of new oak & barrel toasting level. These do calm some with more time in the decanter but, not enough. — 5 years ago
Tenuta di Fessina
A' Puddara Etna Bianco Carricante
Waxy citrus and mineral, with a bit of that petrol that reminds of Riesling - could be even better with a little time to come together — 6 years ago
Koehler-Ruprecht
Kallstadter Saumagen R Spätlese Trocken Riesling 2009
@Dominik SonaYou're the best! Walks off into the cellar, comes out carrying a massive bottle in a sleeve that could barely cover the label. I just love how ridiculous magnum riesling bottles look! I mean, we could see that it's a Koehler-Ruprecht for sure and the table shot straight to a warm vintage on the first sip (warm finish). Didn't take long for Franzi to identify the vintage and the rest of the pieces fell together subsequently (the body = spatlese, forget identifying the "R"). Guess making wines at the winery itself helps 😂
What to say about this wine? It's pretty intense, but the acidity and minerals kept it in check. Finely strung with pitch-perfect tension. This is the kind of wine that needs very little to push it over the edge into the hedonistic territory. Begs for time (like other 09's), as it's true elegance only revealed itself with air (bring on the crushed rocks and chamomile!). The nose is deep, with exotic fruit aromas, flint, toasted almond, florals, and that classic KR funk. Immense palate with lots of lychee and grapefruit, plus superb minerality with air. Creamy and long finish. Yes, the wine finishes a little warm and could be touch more focus, but it's a real class act for 09'! Power without weight, if you ask me. — 6 years ago
Terroir al Límit
Terra de Cuques Priorat Pedro Ximénez Muscat 2016
Muscat is very noticeable on the nose, that distinctive grape aroma (how few wines actually smell and taste of grapes). On the palate, a hint of mandarin orange or if we’re being fancy orange blossom, to go with a slightly unctuous mouthfeel that I presume is the Pedro Ximinez. Slightly sweet, as you’d expect from such a blend, but with a rustic charm, not too polished. Stone fruit and a little bit of salinity to keep it interesting. Sourced in Montreal for about $55 in the summer- I’d buy it again, though it’s not in the same league as their Pedra de Guix — 7 years ago
Château Milens
St. Émilion Grand Cru Red Bordeaux Blend 2010
Owner TomeVinos wine shops, WSET Level 3, Blogger www.spanishwinesandmore.com, blog.tomevinos.com
#stemilion #grandcruclassé Deep ruby, needed to open to decant, tight at beginning, then dark jammy cherries and plums, seems pure #Merlot, dark chocolate and hint of pepper. Very little tertiary notes, a little savoury sweet marinated meat. Dry, soft entry, medium acidity, pronounced silky smooth tannins, high alcohol. Full bodied and medium+ flavor intensity. Very good. I feel like this wine is overtly alcoholic and lacking intensity of aromas and flavors. There's no precision, no standout complexity or character because it's 14.5 alcohol and it seems like it could use a little mojo or funk. Very sleek very sexy, whatevers, but I'm digging the slightly green and funky Lalande that I'm tasting side by side that's half the price. — 8 years ago
Domaine les Grands Bois
Cuvée Marc Rasteau Grenache Blend 2010
After cork pop and the weird baked nitrogen infused plum tart note, I almost considered this one a wash. After 45 minutes, this one opens up. Front is an earthy plum and tobacco. The middle is where you start to get a little black Boysenberry note with mushroom. The finish is a little sweeter, no real discernable tannin but acidity was still here. Better with pizza, and some gouda sacrificed its life so that we could keep drinking (it was a little funky by itself). — 8 years ago
Salvatore Molettieri
Cinque Querce Irpinia Aglianico 2012
The first time I tried this one I thought it was cooked and it turns out I am probably correct. This second bottle was absolutely amazing. The first smell gave me elements of tobacco in tar. You could smell the smoke ear itching stickiness of like a fresh paved Road or old cigar stubs. After that there was a second layer of cherry. it was incredible. it wasn't like a sour cherry so much as it was a maraschino cherry. There was the third and final layer of milk chocolate that was a perfect balance of the first two. Imagine eating an amazing chocolate covered Cherry while smoking a Maduro cigar at a gas station and that's exactly what you have. Musical most comforting feeling to it. This is something you should want to drink by yourself curled up with a good book or with a good movie on. My only problem is that it comes off is almost stopped and off balance or amateurish version of the mastroberedino radici. The alcohol is a little bit too prominent on the back end and I would like to see it aged a bit more I think this one would be about 5 times better in about 5 years. Also I would like to have seen a slightly Fuller body. I purchase this wine for about 19.99 and I have to say I'd go with high as about $28 for this bottle. — 9 years ago
Rob N
This wine was quite tart — granny smith apple. But the intensity of flavor was remarkable. Afterwards Rombauer tasted subdued by comparison, albeit much oakier. Very little oak, if any, that I could detect on this one. — 4 years ago