Somm David T

Independent Sommelier/Wine Educator

9.4

I have a six-pack of this 05. I thought after 10 years in bottle, it would be interesting to check in on its evolution. While tasty, I’ll wait another 8-10 to open another. Even after 2-3 hours in the decanter, it’s still a very young adolescent. On the nose, slightly sour blackberries & dark cherries, dark currants, baked black plum, haunting blue fruits, anise, whiff of spice, steeped tea, dry stones, dry crushed rocks with dry top soil, caramel, vanilla with fresh & dry red florals. The body is thick & full. Tannins are starting to round out. It’s velvety on the palate. The fruits are; bright, fresh & ripe and really show the greatness of the 05 vintage. Dark currants, blackberries, dark cherries, baked black plum, haunting blue fruits, baked strawberries, cherries, raspberries on the long set, dark spice, clay & loamy dry top soil with crushed rocks, dry stones, cigar with ash, graphite, dry stems, slight herbaceous character, mint, used leather, clove, caramel, vanilla, fresh & dry red florals with violets. The round acidity is about perfect. The structure and length are still strong. The balance is in harmony. As for the long finish, it’s lush, ruby, rich and well polished. Photos of; Chateau Brane Cantenac, large wood vats, Henri Lurton and Estate vines. Producer notes and history...Chateau Brane Cantenac began in the early 17th century. At the time, the estate was known as Domaine Guilhem Hosten. Even that far back, wine was produced from the property. In fact, the wine was so highly regarded it was one of the more expensive wines in Bordeaux. It sold for almost as much money as Brane Mouton. This is interesting because of who went on to buy the vineyard in the 1800’s. The Baron of Brane, also known as “Napoleon of the Vineyards”, purchased the Chateau in 1833. At the time of the sale, the estate was called Chateau Gorce-Guy. To get the funds needed to purchase the Margaux vineyard, the Baron sold what is now called Mouton Rothschild, which was at the time of the sale, known as Chateau Brane-Mouton. Not such a good move with hundreds of years in hindsight! In 1838, the Baron renamed property taking his name and the name of the sector where the vineyards were located and called it Chateau Brane Cantenac. The Chateau later passed to the Roy family, who were well-known in the Margaux appellation in those days, as they owned Chateau d’issan. Moving ahead to 1920, the Societe des Grands Crus de France, a group of merchants and growers that owned several chateaux located in the Medoc including; Chateau Margaux, Chateau Giscours, and Chateau Lagrange in St. Julien, purchased Chateau Brane Cantenac. Five years later, M. Recapet and his son-in-law, François Lurton, took over Brane Cantenac along with Chateau Margaux. Lucien Lurton (the son of François Lurton) inherited Brane Cantenac in 1956. Today, the estate is still in the hands of the Lurton family. Brane Cantenac is owned and run by Henri Lurton. After being given the responsibility of managing Brane Cantenac, it was under the direction of Henri Lurton that large portions of the vineyard were replanted. Vine densities were increased, the drainage systems were improved and the plantings were also, slowly changed. The vineyard of Brane Cantenac is planted to 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4.5% Cabernet Franc and .5% Carmenere. Carmenere was used for the first time in the 2011 vintage. The only other Chateau I know that still uses Carmenere is Clerc Milon. The 75 hectare Left Bank vineyard of Brane Cantenac is essentially unchanged since it earned Second Growth status in the 1855 Classification. At least that is the case with the 45 hectares used to produce the Grand Vin of Brane Cantenac. Those 45 hectares are planted surrounding the Chateau. Those vines are located just in front of the Cantenac plateau and are the best terroir that Brane Cantenac owns. They have other parcels, which are further inland and much of those grapes are placed into their second wine, Le Baron de Brane. Those additional hectares can be divided into 3 main sections. Behind the Chateau, they have 15 hectares of vines on gravel and sand, 10 hectares across the road with sand, gravel and iron and a 13 hectare parcel with gravel called Notton, which is used for their second wine. The vineyard is planted to a vine density that ranges from 6,666 vines per hectare on the plateau and up to 8,000 vines per hectare for the vines located behind chateau, in their sandier soils. The higher levels of vine density are always found in the newer plantings. The terroir of Brane Cantenac consists of deep gravel, sand and clay soil. Experiments in the vineyards are currently looking at becoming more organic in their vineyard management. Today, more than 25% of Brane Cantenac is farmed using organic farming techniques. It is expected that over time, the amount of hectares farmed with organic methods will be increased. Brane Cantenac has gone through 2 relatively recent modernization’s in 1999, when they added began adding the first of their smaller vats to allow for parcel by parcel vinification and then again in 2015 when they completed a much more complete renovation of their cellars and vat rooms. While Brane Cantenac is a traditional producer, they are no stranger to technology as they were one of the first estates to embrace optical grape sorting machines. In very wet vintages, they can also use reverse osmosis. To produce the wine of Chateau Brane Cantenac, the wine is vinified in a combination of temperature controlled, traditional, 22 oak vats, 18 concrete tanks and 20 stainless steel vats that vary in size from 40 hectoliters all the way up to 200 hectoliters, which allows for parcel by parcel vinification. 40% of the fermentation takes place in the oak vats. The oldest vines are vinified in vats that are selected to allow for separate parcel by parcel vinification. The younger vines are vinified more often together in the same vats. However, the Carmenere is entirely micro-vinified, meaning that those grapes were completely vinified in barrel, using micro-vinification techniques. This can also happen because the amount of grapes produced is so small. Some vats can be co-inoculated, meaning they go through alcoholic fermentation and malolactic fermentation simultaneously. At Chateau Brane Cantenac, malolactic fermentation takes place in a combination of French oak tanks and barrels. The wine of Brane Cantenac is aged in an average of 60% new, French oak barrels for 18 months before bottling. The initial 2 months of aging is done with the wine on its lees, which adds more depth to the wine. There second wine is Le Baron de Brane. Le Baron de Brane is not new. In fact, previously, the second wine went under the name of Chateau Notton, which took its name from one of the main parcels where the grapes were planted. During the late 1950’s and into the 1960’s, having a second wine was important as the estate declassified 3 vintages, due to extremely poor, weather conditions in 1956, 1960 and 1963. Production of Chateau Brane Cantenac is about 11,000 cases per year. — 8 years ago

Giuseppe LoCascio

9.2

Chapeau!!Velvet glove on an iron fist — 11 years ago

with Nunzio and Ian

Stephen Smith

10

This is such a solid beer. Not heavy on the palate hut heavy on taste. Nuts, cocoa, a little coffee in a medium body package. — 11 years ago

with Mindy

Sasha Smith

Wine Blogger Spin the Bottle NY

9.3

Velvet glove (without the iron fist). #ChristiesBYOB — 11 years ago

with Richard, Per and 1 other

Ken Kailin

9.7

rich regal elegant classic velvet glove iron fist. Still so young but so good. Tense with a wonderful succulent black cherry fruits with a wet soil component. Broad and dense slowly unwinds in glass. Young with many years ahead and just a baby still. Wow. — 11 years ago

Vinny Eng

9.1

Dueling Beaujos. Contender #2: Lapierre. Iron fist, velvet glove. Pristine, polished, garnets. A shiny object. — 12 years ago

Parag Lalit

9.6

Clearly one of my favourites from Bordeaux. A very under rated vintage under the shadow of 2000's. Iron fist in a velvet glove is what I think of this lovely wine. Spherical, sexy and very serious.18,5 ++/20 — 13 years ago

Mark Howard

9.5

The prototypical iron fist in the velvet glove. Wonderful aromatics soft tannins expressive mid palate of currants licorice leather tobacco dark berries. Still vibrant and expressive for an aged wine. This is why Cask 23 is my favorite domestic wine. BRAVO! — 9 years ago

with Elizabeth

Chip Hughes

9.5

Iron fist in chainmail glove. Bone dry in '13 (Maxime's first 'solo' vintage). Preserved lemon, dense and oily, super-saline; commanding. Astonishing length and persistence; easily a 25+ year wine. A stallion, indeed. #alsace #barmesbuecher #riesling — 9 years ago

Robert Cunningham

Wine Educator DeVinimus, Wine Workshop

9.3

Drinking very well. Showing the velvet glove on the iron fist. Smooth and rich. Lovely — 10 years ago

Rachel Kliminski

10

Per Mr. Bellizzi's suggestion, we ordered this bottle. Waiter described it as "an iron fist with a velvet glove" — 10 years ago

David Kline

9.0

With a head somewhere between cappuccino and fine rosé champagne both in color and bubble. And a dark Amber body bordering on red, this powerful Sphinx tempts you near its maw. A mallard appears in my glass in the foam voids. There is a sweet cinnamon and cherry candy present, but also a marinated mushroom quality to the nose. You sense the granite jaw, and await the iron fist. But the gloves come off, and this model is lithe after a spin around the sun, exhibiting honey and tea, leather touches, finesse and power seamlessly mesh with a vanilla bean and sweet tobacco, cinnamon and toast component. Your tongue has a new friend! #northcoastbrewing #oldstock #agedbeer — 10 years ago

with Courtney

Bob Bryden

Founder The Lake Sommelier, LLC, Author Wine Talk

10

Elegant, powerful, and rewarding. The prototype for "iron fist in a velvet glove." Best Napa cab I have ever tasted. Wow! — 11 years ago

with Tom and Gregory

Andrew Whittle

Co-Owner/Director Summit Estate Wines

9.2

2013 vintage - a very impressive package - almost the "iron fist"! — 11 years ago

Andrew Whittle

Co-Owner/Director Summit Estate Wines

9.5

The standout wine in the reds at the Chapitre - a powerful but very approachable wine - great length - "iron fist in a velvet glove"! — 11 years ago

Greg McGehee

9.4

Iron fist in a velvet glove — 11 years ago

Chris Walsh

Partner Balanced Wine Selections

9.4

Iron fist, silk glove. — 12 years ago

Tom Kobylarz

8.9

Good Nebbiolo from somewhere not B&B. Good typicity, rose petals, red fruits, full bodied but still delivers the iron fist in the velvet glove. Great story on this wine, the somm said after I ordered the wine that this was one of Eddie Vedder's favorites, low and behold see the following link: http://www.terroirist.com/2013/07/at-wrigley-eddie-vedder-drank-nebbiolo/. #pearljam #eddieveddder — 13 years ago

Ira Schwartz

9.5

Boom! After you smell a nose like this you start to drool anticipating what it will taste like. Loads of violets, cassis and earth. Olfactory overload. In the mouth it is a perfect example of an iron fist in a velvet glove. — 9 years ago

Matt

9.6

Phenomenal. Iron fist, velvet glove, brooding and hedonistic. Has a more elegant posture than the 2010, more seamless on the palate with finer tannin. Voluptuously layered and effusive aromas. Linzer torte, poached figs, roasted plums, blueberry, cocoa, kirsch, lavender, garrigue, sweet wood, sweet spices, sweet herbs, peppercorns, dried flowers, savory earth. — 9 years ago

Justin Hansohn

9.2

Iron fist with a velvet glove. The vigneron's location gives it away so well. Romantic and serene. — 10 years ago

Brian Duffy

Sommelier & Beverage Director The Barrymore Las Vegas

9.2

For a 2012 it is an iron fist wearing a velvet glove. Bold but approachable. Ready to drink now but will be even more amazing. I don't recommend if you are looking for an aggressive Napa Cab. If you are looking for elegance this is definitely an excellent choice. — 10 years ago

Scott Stewart

9.2

Just delightful. Quickly becoming one of my favorites. Robust Pinot that manages to contain its power with finesse... Truly an iron fist in a velvet glove. — 10 years ago

LM Segal

9.1

Aaaargh. A hint of barnyard refused to back down, assaulting an otherwise ethereal Echezeaux. Underneath the funk there was pure bright cherry, a light stemmy frame and the whole iron fist in velvet glove thing. 45 second finish. — 10 years ago

Emily Voland

9.6

Very good blend of the iron fist and the silk glove — 11 years ago

Dylan Batterham

9.0

Described as the silver glove with an iron fist... Definitely lived up to it — 11 years ago

Lewis Chester

9.4

2002 vintage Rose. Light salmon, copper hue. Chalk, wet rock to the fore. Red currant and cranberry. Slight blossom notes. Iron fragments. On the palate, very lean and balanced as is the Crystal style. Not the concentration of the white 2002. If there's any tannins here, you have to focus to notice them. Maybe at the back end there's a touch of weight from the tannins. Very young - too young. Don't touch for 7-10 years. Makings of a great wine as acidity is so balanced with the fruit. Love it. NB: Pinot cold macerated for 4 days - to extract colour but little tannins. Then blended with Chardonnay and co-fermented. Quite unique. No added red wine per se. — 11 years ago

Mr Mac

9.3

"Iron fist in the velvet glove" - Burgundy — 12 years ago

Jeremy Giesbrecht

9.6

Oh. My. Goodness. What a wine! Tight as a drum but opened up after a few hours... All the charm of 09 with more serious structure and back-bone. An iron fist in a velvet glove... — 12 years ago

with Eric and Will

Adrianne Buchta

9.8

Again...not a wine...but local yum nonetheless. — 13 years ago