Vinous Matters
Château Ausone
Saint Émilion Red Bordeaux Blend 2019
The 2019 Ausone has a perfumed nose with another Cabernet Franc-driven set of aromas, gravel and loam infusing the black fruit. Wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a beautifully sculpted wine with a killer line of acidity and immense precision on the finish. This just sashays along with style. Fabulous. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — 4 years ago
Luigi Vico
Prapò Barolo Nebbiolo 2018
The 2018 Barolo Prapò is a dark, dense wine. Red cherry, plum, tobacco, cedar, spice, smoke, cured meats and menthol add do an impression of brooding intensity. The Prapò has more body and overall depth than the Serralunga Barolo, but also quite a bit more tannin. I have a slight preference for the Serralunga bottling in this vintage. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, October 2022)
— 4 years ago
Château Montrose
Saint-Estèphe Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2012
The 2012 Montrose has a taut and focused bouquet with crisp blackberry, tobacco and light earthy scents on the nose. Fine vigour and class evident here. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins on the entry, fine acidity, lightly spiced with a nicely proportioned and focused finish. This is a solid, almost swarthy Montrose, though it is surpassed by more recent vintages. Tasted twice at Bordeaux Index's Ten Year-On tasting and blind at the Southwold Ten-Year On tasting. (Neal Martin, Vinous, September 2022)
— 4 years ago
Château Climens
Barsac 1er Cru Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend 2011
The 2011 Climens has a fresh, lifted, mineral-driven bouquet which has closed down a little. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh. A lively, tensile finish, with hints of stem ginger thatlinger on the aftertaste. This is drinking beautifully. Tasted at the Climens vertical at the château in April 2022. (Neal Martin, Vinous, August 2022)
— 4 years ago
Dom Pérignon
Brut Champagne Blend 2008
The 2008 Dom Pérignon is a huge, powerful Champagne and also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. This is one of the most reticent bottles I have tasted. So much so that I am thinking about holding off opening any more bottles! The 2008 has always offered a striking interplay of fruit and structure. Today, the richness of the fruit is especially evident. Readers who own the 2008 should be thrilled, but patience is a must. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, August 2021)
— 5 years ago
Rocca di Montegrossi
Toscana IGT Sangiovese Rosato 2019
The 2019 Rocca di Montegrossi Rosato is gorgeous, both spicy and floral, with zesty bright cherry and a hint of grapefruit. On the palate, silky, soothing textures usher in ripe red fruits offset by vibrant acids, as hints of sweet spice and salty minerals buzz on the senses. The finish is medium in length and remarkably fresh. (Eric Guido, Vinous, May 2020)
— 6 years ago
Château Beauséjour
Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse Saint-Émilion Red Bordeaux Blend 2016
The 2016 Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse has come together beautifully since I last tasted it. Nearly seamless in the glass, the 2016 is rich, unctuous and potent, with all of its elements in the right place. Nothing really sticks out. Instead, I am simply blown away by the wine's intensity, explosive power and overall pedigree. Time in the glass brings out hints of graphite, smoke, cured meats, licorice and dark spices, but it is the wine's balance that is most impressive today. In 2016, Nicolas Thienpont and his team crafted a Beauséjour of mind-boggling intensity and purity. Tasted three times. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, January 2019) — 7 years ago
Château Lafleur
Pomerol Red Bordeaux Blend 2015
The 2015 Lafleur has a broody but intense bouquet with exquisite definition and top quality Cabernet
Franc showing through. This just has to be Lafleur! The palate is extremely well balanced with gentle grip, almost powdery in texture and demonstrating enormous depth and persistence on the finish. It is nowhere near ready but it will be a wonderful Pomerol. There is a sense of audacity here that is compelling. Tasted blind at the Southwold 2015 Bordeaux tasting. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2019) — 7 years ago
Louis Roederer
Cristal Brut Champagne 1983
The 1983 Cristal is fabulous. Rich, ample and generous, the 1983 is incredibly inviting, with tons of class and personality. A wine of real volume and textural breadth, the 1983 has enough pedigree to drink well for many years. None of the elements stand out in the 1983, the whole is far greater than the sum of the parts. “Nineteen eighty-three is a different animal from some of the other wines of the decade,” Lécaillon explains. “It was a heavy crop, with a lot of fruit. There was so much wine in the cellar that the team could not get to everything in a timely fashion, and so there were some lots that started to oxidize a bit, and that, naturally, made the wine bigger.” In tasting, though, there are no off aromas or mushroomy flavors that suggest the wine is fading. If anything, the 1983 is spectacularly beautiful right now, even in the presence of other wines from more highly reputed vintages. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, December 2018) — 8 years ago
Château Mouton Rothschild
Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend 1990
From magnum. No formal notes. The fill was top-shoulder. Underneath the capsule, the top of the cork looked nasty which I wiped down as best I could. About four hours before service, using a Durand (which is almost essential with old bottles) I was able to pull the cork completely intact and decant for sediment. The cork was completely saturated but appeared to have done its job! At this stage in its life, the 1990 Chateau Mouton Rothschild pours a garnet color but it doesn’t appear particularly tired and the nose supports that. While it’s certainly a vinous wine, there is a lot to like: a mix of red and black cassis, rip and desiccated cherries, tobacco leaf, cedar box, old leather, damp earth, some mushrooms and baking spices. The structure is still sound and while the tannins have integrated and the acid is keeping this very much alive. In fact, this seemed to brighten with air and almost get a second wind! As I find with all great Bordeaux wines once they enter this stage, they seem to live forever. This was a lovely pairing with a Prime, Niman Ranch porterhouse served with corn, squash and porcini. This is squarely in the “drink now” window, not that it will be falling off a cliff anytime soon. Decant for sediment and enjoy through 2030+ — 3 years ago
Château Haut-Bailly
Pessac-Léognan Grand Cru Classé Red Bordeaux Blend 2006
The 2006 Haut-Bailly is a very capable Pessac-Léognan from an oft-overlooked vintage. This repeats its showing from a few months earlier with lovely blue and black fruits and violet aromas. Perhaps a mote of chimney soot here? The palate is medium-bodied with that slightly ferrous note and tobacco. This bottle is a touch creamier in texture than previous examples. This is drinking perfectly now, but there's a lot left in the tank. Tasted at the château. (Neal Martin, Vinous, January 2023) — 4 years ago
Château Léoville Poyferré
Saint Julien Red Bordeaux Blend 2004
The 2004 Léoville-Poyferré has a light and airy bouquet with blackberry, antique bureau, forest floor and light fungal aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, a little austere but balanced, though I notice some attenuation and bitterness towards the finish. So-so for this estate. Tasted at the Léoville-Poyferré vertical at the château with Sara Lecompte Cuvelier. (Neal Martin, Vinous, September 2022)
— 4 years ago
Tensley
Colson Canyon Vineyard Syrah 2020
The 2020 Syrah Colson Canyon Vineyard is a dense, potent wine. The purity of the fruit is remarkable. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2020 is still incredibly primary. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, spice, menthol and rose petal open with a bit of coaxing. All this needs is time and a bit more polish. As always, the Colson Canyon Syrah is one of the most distinctive wines in Joey Tensley's range. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, August 2022)
— 4 years ago
Pressing Matters
R9 Coal River Riesling 2007
My last bottle unfortunately. See previous notes from 74 weeks ago and 130 weeks ago. Mid yellow in colour. Obvious parrafin/kerosene on the nose. On the palate ripe grapefruit, nectarine and a little chalkiness. Only 10.2%ABV but not overly sweet. Low acid. Drinking at its peak. Riesling in Tasmania is excellent and flies under the radar to an extent. — 5 years ago
Domaine Bernard Baudry
Chinon Cabernet Franc Rosé 2019
Baudry’s 2019 Chinon Rosé offers suave, mineral-accented aromas of fresh red berries and tangerine on the sharply focused nose. The palate is dry and energetic, with sappy strawberry, bitter cherry and orange zest flavors. Closes long and silky, with a faint touch of anise. $25.00 (Josh Raynolds, Vinous, July 2020) — 6 years ago
Château Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend 1945
The 1945 Haut-Brion is poured against the legendary 1945 Mouton and might just have come out on top. It is difficult to put this wine into words. Showing modest bricking, it presents a sublime bouquet of vibrant red fruit, warm gravel, wilted rose petals and a hint of earthenware. It is crystalline in terms of definition. The palate follows suit with pitch-perfect acidity, a very slight, refreshing hint of balsamic, and finely chiseled tannins. Beguiling in every way, this is a profound Haut-Brion that is absolutely flawless. Tasted at Koala's 1945 dinner. (Neal Martin, Vinous, May 2020)
— 6 years ago
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend
The 2015 Pichon Lalande has a sophisticated bouquet of blackberry, pencil shavings, black pepper and discreet touches of wild mint, all beautifully defined and focused. There is some quality Cabernet here. The palate is medium-bodied with
fine-grained tannin, superb acidity, gentle grip and satisfying tension toward the fresh, vivid finish. One of the best Pauillacs of 2015, this is a magnificent wine from Nicolas Glumineau and his team. Tasted blind at the Southwold 2015 Bordeaux tasting. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2019) — 7 years ago
Domaine des Lambrays
Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru Pinot Noir 2002
Good medium red; not particularly saturated but with a healthy rim. Alluringly scented, wild-yet-somehow-refined aromas of musky raspberry, strawberry, rose petal, brown spices, cedar, underbrush and coffee; this smells sweet! Silky, stylish and weightless, showing lovely stemmy definition and lift to its flavors of wild red berries, mocha and dried flowers. Not a particularly dense or fleshy style but an alluring, vibrant drink that's perfect right now. In fact, in spite of its intense fruit component this wine may only thin out from here. This subtle, elegant Clos des Lambrays finishes with a firm dusting of tannins and a light touch. (13.7% alcohol; 3.59 pH; 3.5 g/l acidity) (Stephen Tanzer, Vinous, April 2019) — 8 years ago
Château Belair-Monange
St. Émilion Red Bordeaux Blend 2015
A huge, intense Saint-Émilion, the Bélair-Monange is just as impressive from bottle as it was from cask. That's the good news. The not-so-good news is that the wine is going to need at least a decade to shed some of its considerable baby fat. A rush of super-ripe black cherry, game, smoke and tobacco hits the palate as this dramatic, unrestrained Saint-Émilion shows off its explosive personality. The 2015 speaks with an assertive voice that demands attention – and it got mine, that’s for sure. The blend is 88% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, Feb 2018)
— 9 years ago
Olga Raffault
Chinon Cabernet Franc Rosé 2022
The 2022 Rosé is distinctly savory, nearly smoky, with a blend of bouquet garni, crushed peaches and wet stone. A tinge of minerality up front enhances its tart orchard fruits, adding a crisp, almost crunchy sensation as sour citrus punctuates the close. It tapers off with a spicy and wonderfully fresh saline tension, leaving just a subtle trace of licorice to fade. (Eric Guido, Vinous, June 2023) — 3 years ago
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Musigny Grand Cru Pinot Noir 1993
The 1993 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru was a real surprise given that I have meted out criticism for the wines from this era. It has a mesmerizing nose with wild strawberry, raspberry and rose petal scents that feel youthful and exuberant. The palate is fleshy and beautifully balanced, supple and has delightful, seductive rondeur. It crescendos towards the finish that is armed with killer delineation, completing perhaps the best Musigny that de Vogüé oversaw that decade. Tasted blind at the Wallace brothers' Xmas dinner. (Neal Martin, Vinous, March 2023) — 4 years ago
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend 2012
The 2012 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was the first vintage with whole bunches (40%) and 18 months in barrel. It was the introductory vintage under current winemaker Guillaume Pouthier. This is much more enticing on the nose after the 2011: well-defined black cherries, cola, peppermint, light rose petal scents and a hint of marmalade that emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, more freshness and tension than the 2011, and frankly, you would never be able to tell there was whole bunch here. This appears to be maturing with style and panache, but it will give another decade or more of drinking pleasure. Tasted at the Les Carmes Haut-Brion vertical at the château. (Neal Martin, Vinous, October 2012)
— 4 years ago
Brewer-Clifton
Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2020
The 2020 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills) is a terrific appellation-level wine. Hints of pear, mint, lemon peel and white flowers all grace this expressive, sculpted Chardonnay from Brewer-Clifton. My only quibble is a slightly aggressive edginess that hopefully will soften over time. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, August 2022)
— 4 years ago
Georges Laval
Brut Nature Cumières 1er Cru Champagne Blend
Laval was my gateway drug to grower champagne and Cumieres never lets me down. An extraordinary week (became an aunt !!!, officially completed my WSET Diploma) called for celebration, i heeded the call with Laval. Unbelievably aromatic (baked apple, fresh apple, toast, brioche and all the lovely things). Decadent, so rich and vinous—you’d almost forget it was brut nature. — 5 years ago
Cédric Bouchard
Roses de Jeanne Presle Blanc de Noirs Champagne
Low pressure of course. Vinous. — 6 years ago
Château La Mission Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend 1945
The 1945 La Mission Haut-Brion from the château cellar is transcendental. It is blessed with the most beautiful bouquet you can imagine, effortless and natural, featuring woodland, red-berried fruits, a minerally quality and a faint touch of leafiness; given time to settle, it develops a lovely gamy note. The palate is medium- rather than full-bodied and sublimely balanced, upholding that effortless grace with an elegant, bittersweet, dried orange peel finish. One of the most harmonious wines I have ever consumed. Perfect. Tasted at the La Mission Haut-Brion vertical in London in September 2009. (Neal Martin, Vinous, May 2020)
— 6 years ago
Dominus Estate
Dominus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2009
Bright, full ruby-red. Highly complex, thoroughly ripe scents of black raspberry, cassis, dark plum, tar, tobacco, mocha and minerals, lifted by a violet topnote. Wonderfully suave and fine-grained but still quite youthful, spreading out to coat the palate without leaving any undue impression of weight. Shows a distinct black cherry medicinal reserve. This very smooth wine finishes with a broad dusting of ripe tannins and steadily building length. Approachable now owing to its successfully integrated acidity and tannins, but I'd rather give this beauty a bit more time in the cellar. (Stephen Tanzer, Vinous, July 2019) — 7 years ago
Château Lafite Rothschild
Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend 2015
Rich, powerful and enveloping, the 2015 Lafite-Rothschild is endowed with serious volume and textural resonance. Super-ripe plum, smoke and spice notes emerge in the glass, but only with great reluctance. Although the aromatics aren't giving much at this point, the palate is much more expressive. The wine's sheer power and authoritative tone result in an unusually dramatic Lafite. The 2015 is 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot that spent 20 months in oak, which is a bit more than the norm. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, February 2018) — 7 years ago
Laherte Frères
Les Beaudiers Rosé de Saignée Vieilles Vignes Extra Brut Champagne Pinot Meunier
Vinous rise Champagne with kirsch, fresh herbs, blood orange. Impressive and balanced! Fascinating to follow over the course of dinner. — 8 years ago
Delectable Wine
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One encounter with an ex-château bottle suggested that the 1966 Lynch-Bages is not to be overlooked. Deep in color, it has a tempting nose that unfolds gradually in the glass, graphite and cedar commingling with crushed stone and red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm entry, very cedary with touches of desiccated orange peel. It's a bit conservative on the finish, though that is a leitmotif of the 1966 vintage. Well-preserved bottles should still be giving pleasure. Tasted at the Lynch Bages vertical. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2023) — 3 years ago