Vinous Matters
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend 2012
The 2012 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was the first vintage with whole bunches (40%) and 18 months in barrel. It was the introductory vintage under current winemaker Guillaume Pouthier. This is much more enticing on the nose after the 2011: well-defined black cherries, cola, peppermint, light rose petal scents and a hint of marmalade that emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, more freshness and tension than the 2011, and frankly, you would never be able to tell there was whole bunch here. This appears to be maturing with style and panache, but it will give another decade or more of drinking pleasure. Tasted at the Les Carmes Haut-Brion vertical at the château. (Neal Martin, Vinous, October 2012)
— 4 years ago
Tensley
Colson Canyon Vineyard Syrah 2020
The 2020 Syrah Colson Canyon Vineyard is a dense, potent wine. The purity of the fruit is remarkable. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2020 is still incredibly primary. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, spice, menthol and rose petal open with a bit of coaxing. All this needs is time and a bit more polish. As always, the Colson Canyon Syrah is one of the most distinctive wines in Joey Tensley's range. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, August 2022)
— 4 years ago
Château La Conseillante
Pomerol Red Bordeaux Blend 2019
The 2019 La Conseillante was stellar from the sample sent to "Martin Towers" in spring 2020, and the news is that there is no change in bottle. Allowed to open while gossiping away with winemaker Marielle Cazaux (you have to catch up when you are unable to see people regularly), the 2019 unveils an awesome, extraordinarily pure bouquet that seduces the senses, featuring dark cherries, blueberry, pressed violet and a touch of blood orange, all displaying wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied and cohesive, with fine-grained tannins and a judicious touch of black pepper toward the finish, which fans out gloriously while maintaining a sense of class. The best La Conseillante since the 2010? No - better. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2022)
— 4 years ago
Dom Pérignon
Brut Champagne Blend 2008
The 2008 Dom Pérignon is a huge, powerful Champagne and also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. This is one of the most reticent bottles I have tasted. So much so that I am thinking about holding off opening any more bottles! The 2008 has always offered a striking interplay of fruit and structure. Today, the richness of the fruit is especially evident. Readers who own the 2008 should be thrilled, but patience is a must. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, August 2021)
— 5 years ago
Rocca di Montegrossi
Toscana IGT Sangiovese Rosato 2019
The 2019 Rocca di Montegrossi Rosato is gorgeous, both spicy and floral, with zesty bright cherry and a hint of grapefruit. On the palate, silky, soothing textures usher in ripe red fruits offset by vibrant acids, as hints of sweet spice and salty minerals buzz on the senses. The finish is medium in length and remarkably fresh. (Eric Guido, Vinous, May 2020)
— 6 years ago
Château Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend 1945
The 1945 Haut-Brion is poured against the legendary 1945 Mouton and might just have come out on top. It is difficult to put this wine into words. Showing modest bricking, it presents a sublime bouquet of vibrant red fruit, warm gravel, wilted rose petals and a hint of earthenware. It is crystalline in terms of definition. The palate follows suit with pitch-perfect acidity, a very slight, refreshing hint of balsamic, and finely chiseled tannins. Beguiling in every way, this is a profound Haut-Brion that is absolutely flawless. Tasted at Koala's 1945 dinner. (Neal Martin, Vinous, May 2020)
— 6 years ago
Château Lafite Rothschild
Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend 1985
The 1985 Lafite-Rothschild is only a modest success in the context of the vintage. Here, it is totally outclassed by the 1985 Las Cases. Light, slightly loose-knit red berry fruit on the nose is complemented by warm gravel and smoky aromas, though it lacks a bit of energy. The palate is nicely balanced, not powerful but focused, with adequate freshness. As mentioned in my previous tasting note, this has dispensed with some density in recent years, and if your expectations are modest, it remains enjoyable. Tasted at Hameau de Barbaron in Burgundy. (Neal Martin Vinous, December 2019)
— 7 years ago
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend
The 2015 Pichon Lalande has a sophisticated bouquet of blackberry, pencil shavings, black pepper and discreet touches of wild mint, all beautifully defined and focused. There is some quality Cabernet here. The palate is medium-bodied with
fine-grained tannin, superb acidity, gentle grip and satisfying tension toward the fresh, vivid finish. One of the best Pauillacs of 2015, this is a magnificent wine from Nicolas Glumineau and his team. Tasted blind at the Southwold 2015 Bordeaux tasting. (Neal Martin, Vinous, July 2019) — 7 years ago
Laherte Frères
Les Beaudiers Rosé de Saignée Vieilles Vignes Extra Brut Champagne Pinot Meunier
Vinous rise Champagne with kirsch, fresh herbs, blood orange. Impressive and balanced! Fascinating to follow over the course of dinner. — 8 years ago
Château Calon-Ségur
Saint-Estèphe Red Bordeaux Blend 2020
The 2020 Calon-Ségur is allowed to open for over 90 minutes, unfurling in the glass with blackberry and bilberry scents, cedar and floral scents (almost identical to how it showed in barrel.) It just oozes pedigree. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins and quite plush red fruit. It is very well balanced without the backbone and depth of say, Montrose or Cos d'Estournel. It has gained a bit of heft on the finish during its élevage. However, it fans out in assured fashion. This should drink beautifully for 25 to 30 years. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — 3 years ago
Château Léoville Poyferré
Saint Julien Red Bordeaux Blend 2004
The 2004 Léoville-Poyferré has a light and airy bouquet with blackberry, antique bureau, forest floor and light fungal aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, a little austere but balanced, though I notice some attenuation and bitterness towards the finish. So-so for this estate. Tasted at the Léoville-Poyferré vertical at the château with Sara Lecompte Cuvelier. (Neal Martin, Vinous, September 2022)
— 4 years ago
Brewer-Clifton
Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2020
The 2020 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills) is a terrific appellation-level wine. Hints of pear, mint, lemon peel and white flowers all grace this expressive, sculpted Chardonnay from Brewer-Clifton. My only quibble is a slightly aggressive edginess that hopefully will soften over time. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, August 2022)
— 4 years ago
Château Climens
Barsac 1er Cru Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend 2011
The 2011 Climens has a fresh, lifted, mineral-driven bouquet which has closed down a little. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh. A lively, tensile finish, with hints of stem ginger thatlinger on the aftertaste. This is drinking beautifully. Tasted at the Climens vertical at the château in April 2022. (Neal Martin, Vinous, August 2022)
— 4 years ago
Georges Laval
Brut Nature Cumières 1er Cru Champagne Blend
Laval was my gateway drug to grower champagne and Cumieres never lets me down. An extraordinary week (became an aunt !!!, officially completed my WSET Diploma) called for celebration, i heeded the call with Laval. Unbelievably aromatic (baked apple, fresh apple, toast, brioche and all the lovely things). Decadent, so rich and vinous—you’d almost forget it was brut nature. — 4 years ago
Domaine Bernard Baudry
Chinon Cabernet Franc Rosé 2019
Baudry’s 2019 Chinon Rosé offers suave, mineral-accented aromas of fresh red berries and tangerine on the sharply focused nose. The palate is dry and energetic, with sappy strawberry, bitter cherry and orange zest flavors. Closes long and silky, with a faint touch of anise. $25.00 (Josh Raynolds, Vinous, July 2020) — 6 years ago
Château Lafleur
Pomerol Red Bordeaux Blend 2010
The 2010 Lafleur is showing a lot of Cabernet Franc on the nose. It is supremely well defined with incredibly clarity and terroir expression. You could almost mistake it for a Left Bank. Figeac? The palate is precise and detailed, touches of burnt toast and white pepper sprinkled over the persistent and structured finish that does not miss a step. Brilliant. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal. (Neal Martin, Vinous, April 2020)
— 6 years ago
Château Beauséjour
Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse Saint-Émilion Red Bordeaux Blend 2016
The 2016 Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse has come together beautifully since I last tasted it. Nearly seamless in the glass, the 2016 is rich, unctuous and potent, with all of its elements in the right place. Nothing really sticks out. Instead, I am simply blown away by the wine's intensity, explosive power and overall pedigree. Time in the glass brings out hints of graphite, smoke, cured meats, licorice and dark spices, but it is the wine's balance that is most impressive today. In 2016, Nicolas Thienpont and his team crafted a Beauséjour of mind-boggling intensity and purity. Tasted three times. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, January 2019) — 7 years ago
Domaine des Lambrays
Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru Pinot Noir 2002
Good medium red; not particularly saturated but with a healthy rim. Alluringly scented, wild-yet-somehow-refined aromas of musky raspberry, strawberry, rose petal, brown spices, cedar, underbrush and coffee; this smells sweet! Silky, stylish and weightless, showing lovely stemmy definition and lift to its flavors of wild red berries, mocha and dried flowers. Not a particularly dense or fleshy style but an alluring, vibrant drink that's perfect right now. In fact, in spite of its intense fruit component this wine may only thin out from here. This subtle, elegant Clos des Lambrays finishes with a firm dusting of tannins and a light touch. (13.7% alcohol; 3.59 pH; 3.5 g/l acidity) (Stephen Tanzer, Vinous, April 2019) — 7 years ago
Château de Beaucastel
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Red Rhône Blend 2010
I'm sorry I woke you up but I need to check in on you and your friends. Day 1 is compact and very concentrated. Vinous and dense. Just needs some time to wake up. Already tons of garrigue, tar, talcum, licorice and dense fruit out the ass. Super silky given it's weight. Day 2: still sleepy. Showing some more black fruit compote, black tea, raspy herbs, bitter cocoa, cedar. Day 3: this big boy is just waking up. Relaxed a lot though since the last 2 glasses went down very quickly. 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, 10% Counoise, 5% Cinsault etc — 10 years ago
Château Haut-Bailly
Pessac-Léognan Grand Cru Classé Red Bordeaux Blend 2006
The 2006 Haut-Bailly is a very capable Pessac-Léognan from an oft-overlooked vintage. This repeats its showing from a few months earlier with lovely blue and black fruits and violet aromas. Perhaps a mote of chimney soot here? The palate is medium-bodied with that slightly ferrous note and tobacco. This bottle is a touch creamier in texture than previous examples. This is drinking perfectly now, but there's a lot left in the tank. Tasted at the château. (Neal Martin, Vinous, January 2023) — 3 years ago
Luigi Vico
Prapò Barolo Nebbiolo 2018
The 2018 Barolo Prapò is a dark, dense wine. Red cherry, plum, tobacco, cedar, spice, smoke, cured meats and menthol add do an impression of brooding intensity. The Prapò has more body and overall depth than the Serralunga Barolo, but also quite a bit more tannin. I have a slight preference for the Serralunga bottling in this vintage. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, October 2022)
— 4 years ago
Château Montrose
Saint-Estèphe Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2012
The 2012 Montrose has a taut and focused bouquet with crisp blackberry, tobacco and light earthy scents on the nose. Fine vigour and class evident here. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins on the entry, fine acidity, lightly spiced with a nicely proportioned and focused finish. This is a solid, almost swarthy Montrose, though it is surpassed by more recent vintages. Tasted twice at Bordeaux Index's Ten Year-On tasting and blind at the Southwold Ten-Year On tasting. (Neal Martin, Vinous, September 2022)
— 4 years ago
Ovid
Napa Valley Red Blend 2011
The 2011 Ovid has aged exceptionally well. Freshly cut flowers, sweet red berry fruit, cedar, mint and sweet pipe tobacco are all very nicely lifted. Silky and medium in body, the 2011 is super-expressive today. It also appears to have reached an early plateau of maturity, so I would not wait too long on it. Sweet tobacco, dried herbs, mint, licorice and pine linger on the refined finish. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, May 2022)
— 4 years ago
Pressing Matters
R9 Coal River Riesling 2007
My last bottle unfortunately. See previous notes from 74 weeks ago and 130 weeks ago. Mid yellow in colour. Obvious parrafin/kerosene on the nose. On the palate ripe grapefruit, nectarine and a little chalkiness. Only 10.2%ABV but not overly sweet. Low acid. Drinking at its peak. Riesling in Tasmania is excellent and flies under the radar to an extent. — 5 years ago
Cédric Bouchard
Roses de Jeanne Presle Blanc de Noirs Champagne
Low pressure of course. Vinous. — 6 years ago
Château La Mission Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan Red Bordeaux Blend 1945
The 1945 La Mission Haut-Brion from the château cellar is transcendental. It is blessed with the most beautiful bouquet you can imagine, effortless and natural, featuring woodland, red-berried fruits, a minerally quality and a faint touch of leafiness; given time to settle, it develops a lovely gamy note. The palate is medium- rather than full-bodied and sublimely balanced, upholding that effortless grace with an elegant, bittersweet, dried orange peel finish. One of the most harmonious wines I have ever consumed. Perfect. Tasted at the La Mission Haut-Brion vertical in London in September 2009. (Neal Martin, Vinous, May 2020)
— 6 years ago
Château Léoville-Las Cases
Grand Vin de Leoville du Marquis de las Cases Saint-Julien Red Bordeaux Blend 2010
The 2010 Léoville–Las Cases has a very intense, multifaceted bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, orange blossom, pipe tobacco and light white pepper aromas. The oak is now fully enmeshed, and if anything it blossoms with aeration. The palate has softened a little since I tasted this in 2014, but there remains a wonderful arching texture, a fine bead of acidity and enormous length. The persistency here is outstanding, but there is also plenty of freshness. This may be a little more open than I imagined, though I would still give it another two or three years in bottle. Tasted at the château. (Neal Martin, Vinous, December 2019)
— 7 years ago
Dominus Estate
Dominus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2009
Bright, full ruby-red. Highly complex, thoroughly ripe scents of black raspberry, cassis, dark plum, tar, tobacco, mocha and minerals, lifted by a violet topnote. Wonderfully suave and fine-grained but still quite youthful, spreading out to coat the palate without leaving any undue impression of weight. Shows a distinct black cherry medicinal reserve. This very smooth wine finishes with a broad dusting of ripe tannins and steadily building length. Approachable now owing to its successfully integrated acidity and tannins, but I'd rather give this beauty a bit more time in the cellar. (Stephen Tanzer, Vinous, July 2019) — 7 years ago
Louis Roederer
Cristal Brut Champagne 1990
The 1990 Cristal is remarkable. Polished, nuanced and light on its feet, the 1990 is all class. Citrus, orchard fruit and floral notes are wonderfully lifted throughout. A slight reductive note adds character on the finely knit finish. I can’t think of a better way to start this tasting. Simply put, the 1990 is a total rock star. Moreover, it is much more delicate than most wines from this ripe vintage. Amazingly, the 1990 tastes like it is still not ready! “Nineteen ninety was my second vintage here,” says Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon. “It was ideal. The fruit was just perfect. We blocked the malolactic fermentation completely and only fermented 6-7% of our lots in oak, as opposed to the more typical 20%, in order to preserve as much freshness as possible. The wine was made by my predecessor, Michel Pansu, but I was learning. This was the first year I started working with oxygen by reducing sulfites in vinification to pre-oxidize the Chardonnay musts, as I do know, which allows me to get rid of all the unstable, oxidative compounds. With Pinot, on the other hand, you need a little bit of sulfur at crush or you lose the brilliant fruit. (Antonio Galloni, Vinous, December 2018) — 8 years ago
Delectable Wine
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The 2019 Ausone has a perfumed nose with another Cabernet Franc-driven set of aromas, gravel and loam infusing the black fruit. Wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a beautifully sculpted wine with a killer line of acidity and immense precision on the finish. This just sashays along with style. Fabulous. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting. (Neal Martin, Vinous, February 2023) — 3 years ago