Somm David T

Independent Sommelier/Wine Educator

9.4

I have a six-pack of this 05. I thought after 10 years in bottle, it would be interesting to check in on its evolution. While tasty, I’ll wait another 8-10 to open another. Even after 2-3 hours in the decanter, it’s still a very young adolescent. On the nose, slightly sour blackberries & dark cherries, dark currants, baked black plum, haunting blue fruits, anise, whiff of spice, steeped tea, dry stones, dry crushed rocks with dry top soil, caramel, vanilla with fresh & dry red florals. The body is thick & full. Tannins are starting to round out. It’s velvety on the palate. The fruits are; bright, fresh & ripe and really show the greatness of the 05 vintage. Dark currants, blackberries, dark cherries, baked black plum, haunting blue fruits, baked strawberries, cherries, raspberries on the long set, dark spice, clay & loamy dry top soil with crushed rocks, dry stones, cigar with ash, graphite, dry stems, slight herbaceous character, mint, used leather, clove, caramel, vanilla, fresh & dry red florals with violets. The round acidity is about perfect. The structure and length are still strong. The balance is in harmony. As for the long finish, it’s lush, ruby, rich and well polished. Photos of; Chateau Brane Cantenac, large wood vats, Henri Lurton and Estate vines. Producer notes and history...Chateau Brane Cantenac began in the early 17th century. At the time, the estate was known as Domaine Guilhem Hosten. Even that far back, wine was produced from the property. In fact, the wine was so highly regarded it was one of the more expensive wines in Bordeaux. It sold for almost as much money as Brane Mouton. This is interesting because of who went on to buy the vineyard in the 1800’s. The Baron of Brane, also known as “Napoleon of the Vineyards”, purchased the Chateau in 1833. At the time of the sale, the estate was called Chateau Gorce-Guy. To get the funds needed to purchase the Margaux vineyard, the Baron sold what is now called Mouton Rothschild, which was at the time of the sale, known as Chateau Brane-Mouton. Not such a good move with hundreds of years in hindsight! In 1838, the Baron renamed property taking his name and the name of the sector where the vineyards were located and called it Chateau Brane Cantenac. The Chateau later passed to the Roy family, who were well-known in the Margaux appellation in those days, as they owned Chateau d’issan. Moving ahead to 1920, the Societe des Grands Crus de France, a group of merchants and growers that owned several chateaux located in the Medoc including; Chateau Margaux, Chateau Giscours, and Chateau Lagrange in St. Julien, purchased Chateau Brane Cantenac. Five years later, M. Recapet and his son-in-law, François Lurton, took over Brane Cantenac along with Chateau Margaux. Lucien Lurton (the son of François Lurton) inherited Brane Cantenac in 1956. Today, the estate is still in the hands of the Lurton family. Brane Cantenac is owned and run by Henri Lurton. After being given the responsibility of managing Brane Cantenac, it was under the direction of Henri Lurton that large portions of the vineyard were replanted. Vine densities were increased, the drainage systems were improved and the plantings were also, slowly changed. The vineyard of Brane Cantenac is planted to 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4.5% Cabernet Franc and .5% Carmenere. Carmenere was used for the first time in the 2011 vintage. The only other Chateau I know that still uses Carmenere is Clerc Milon. The 75 hectare Left Bank vineyard of Brane Cantenac is essentially unchanged since it earned Second Growth status in the 1855 Classification. At least that is the case with the 45 hectares used to produce the Grand Vin of Brane Cantenac. Those 45 hectares are planted surrounding the Chateau. Those vines are located just in front of the Cantenac plateau and are the best terroir that Brane Cantenac owns. They have other parcels, which are further inland and much of those grapes are placed into their second wine, Le Baron de Brane. Those additional hectares can be divided into 3 main sections. Behind the Chateau, they have 15 hectares of vines on gravel and sand, 10 hectares across the road with sand, gravel and iron and a 13 hectare parcel with gravel called Notton, which is used for their second wine. The vineyard is planted to a vine density that ranges from 6,666 vines per hectare on the plateau and up to 8,000 vines per hectare for the vines located behind chateau, in their sandier soils. The higher levels of vine density are always found in the newer plantings. The terroir of Brane Cantenac consists of deep gravel, sand and clay soil. Experiments in the vineyards are currently looking at becoming more organic in their vineyard management. Today, more than 25% of Brane Cantenac is farmed using organic farming techniques. It is expected that over time, the amount of hectares farmed with organic methods will be increased. Brane Cantenac has gone through 2 relatively recent modernization’s in 1999, when they added began adding the first of their smaller vats to allow for parcel by parcel vinification and then again in 2015 when they completed a much more complete renovation of their cellars and vat rooms. While Brane Cantenac is a traditional producer, they are no stranger to technology as they were one of the first estates to embrace optical grape sorting machines. In very wet vintages, they can also use reverse osmosis. To produce the wine of Chateau Brane Cantenac, the wine is vinified in a combination of temperature controlled, traditional, 22 oak vats, 18 concrete tanks and 20 stainless steel vats that vary in size from 40 hectoliters all the way up to 200 hectoliters, which allows for parcel by parcel vinification. 40% of the fermentation takes place in the oak vats. The oldest vines are vinified in vats that are selected to allow for separate parcel by parcel vinification. The younger vines are vinified more often together in the same vats. However, the Carmenere is entirely micro-vinified, meaning that those grapes were completely vinified in barrel, using micro-vinification techniques. This can also happen because the amount of grapes produced is so small. Some vats can be co-inoculated, meaning they go through alcoholic fermentation and malolactic fermentation simultaneously. At Chateau Brane Cantenac, malolactic fermentation takes place in a combination of French oak tanks and barrels. The wine of Brane Cantenac is aged in an average of 60% new, French oak barrels for 18 months before bottling. The initial 2 months of aging is done with the wine on its lees, which adds more depth to the wine. There second wine is Le Baron de Brane. Le Baron de Brane is not new. In fact, previously, the second wine went under the name of Chateau Notton, which took its name from one of the main parcels where the grapes were planted. During the late 1950’s and into the 1960’s, having a second wine was important as the estate declassified 3 vintages, due to extremely poor, weather conditions in 1956, 1960 and 1963. Production of Chateau Brane Cantenac is about 11,000 cases per year. — 9 years ago

Marc On

Writer Originalverkorkt, Lobenbergs Gute Weine

9.3

Lots of malo aromatic at first which blows off after some air so I would recommend to decant this boy. Nice strawberry/cherry component on the nose turns into a more & more herbal direction. Good acidity, strong tannins (should soften with some more time in the bottle), lots of herbal & stony components on the medium+ finish. A real character and one of the better wines out of my little Burgundy collection. Only drop of bitterness is the nowadays really high price point. — 10 years ago

Tourswede

9.2

A new surprise from local warehouse. Presents itself at first like a light gamay but lingers into the pinot direction and stays there.

I feel much better about this than some reviews floating around. — 11 years ago

Patrick Dorsey

9.5

Wow. Smoked meats on one hand, violets on the other. Low alcohol, great acid, good structure..........it doesn't necessarily resemble one particular Northern Rhône appellation, but if you tasted me blind on this, that's at least the direction I'd be going. Special. — 11 years ago

Ashtin Berry

9.2

"Sensual and thought-provoking this famous and mature wine shows great speed and direction on the palate starting spicy and sappy then moving to mulberry, white sage, and oregano." - Jeremy Quinn
'Nuff said!!! — 11 years ago

Mike Dombrow

Buyer Sunfish Cellars

9.1

Round the world and home again That's the sailor's way Faster faster, faster faster There's no earthly way of knowing Which direction we are going There's no knowing where we're rowing — 12 years ago

Petra Thieriot

Owner/Importer Dee Vine Wines

10

Diese Flasche wurde am 19.03.2012 verkostet und neu verkorkt. Big smile on my face! — 13 years ago

with Dade

Jens Persson

8.9

Tesch does it different. Not the usual Riesling notes of citrus and green apples. This goes in the opposite direction. Big and bold notes of petroleum, honey and almonds. And heavy razor sharp acidity. This wine is not made to please everyone, despite being the entry level wine from this producer. If this is what you get for 16 Euro’s I can’t wait to try more from their selection — 9 years ago

Severn G

9.2

It's Friday night, time to drink like a Viking, this is a step in the right direction. Nice (dry) Chenin from Loire, plundered this bottle for $17. Northern location in Vouvray, silex soils and partial time in Chestnut barrels. Those notes come through in the glass, high acid, liquid version of Granny Smith Apple. — 9 years ago

Dock Hooks

8.9

Kicking back letting the local tunes adjust my attitude with wine:30 showing on the clock she strolls in my direction digging the slow roll Hendrix spinning left then twisting right dressed in deep purple clinging and flowing interestingly crimson along her rim and edges back to casually claret whispering that she's from a small chateau hanging on the right bank of the Gironde near Arveyres. Offering her hand, I accept pulling her in close then a slow spin and a slower twirl she comes close bathed in the essence of blackberry and spice, young but ripe, wet earthy slowly working her way to a first kiss dripping then gripping, pulling tightly then going soft and silky still clinging while working her way deeper. I close my eyes, Hendrix stops and she's gone. A distant guitar string bends an unknown player. I spot her by the bar, her colors waving in the breeze of a lazy fan I reach out take her firmly by the neck, then lower bending her gently back then spinning her my way, she again engages, her essence lingering in my memory, we dance on as the tunes continue their spin. Later, when we are both done I figure she's likely a fine Merlot brightened by Cab Franc having found her way through new French oak nestled by the river, intelligently nuanced well worth the dance and cost is not an issue...

Hanging at Promise' Land Market where the tunes are always righteous, the people are cool, the conversation is groovy and wines dance from the walls... — 9 years ago

Marc On

Writer Originalverkorkt, Lobenbergs Gute Weine

9.3

This 2009 starts to show in which direction a matured Top-Blaufränkisch could go.
--> Elegance, grace and harmony — 10 years ago

Tom Kobylarz

9.1

Quite nice as well, working in the opposite direction on the palate as the Agrapart...tight and packed up front this fans out on the finish gaining weight, complexity and breadth. — 10 years ago

Henrik Poulsen

9.2

14.5% alc., 50 cases produced.

First vintage under the direction of Denis Malbec who tragically passed away a few weeks ago.

I'll be very interested in tasting their 2014/15 and think this is a winery to keep on the radar..... — 10 years ago

with Kurt-Inge

Jose Lorenzo

9.4

Dominik Huber is taking Priorat in a great direction — 11 years ago

Tyler Kirby

9.5

Gotta thank Alex down at the wine steward for pointing me in the right direction on this one. Great intro to the beauj, at a super reasonable price. — 11 years ago

Andrew Watterson

9.0

A highly tasty wine made almost entirely of grapes I've never heard of. Nothing really dramatic in any direction, but I'd buy this again for sure. — 11 years ago

Thomas Pastuszak

Sommelier/Wine Director The NoMad

9.1

A great new direction in Chenin: so excited for this to be hitting our shores — 12 years ago

Bryant Bickel

8.9

Takes WA in a great direction the winemaking sings tightly wound dark cherry an soft cinnamon spice that drives a currant and spice box structure, plus I feel like its just at a Lolita age could be sexier but ooh you tasty now gurl — 13 years ago

Pam Harned

8.9

Unfiltered so lots of flavor — 14 years ago

Narun P

9.0

100% Pinot Noir.

Medium garnet with bricked/sun-dried undertone. Clear and compact rim.

Lots of secondary characters showing in the aromas with cured meat, mushroom, old leather, dried cherry. Yet decent amount of fresh (and almost candied) red fruits still very much present.

The palate is less integrated (and probably less interesting). Integrated tannin, medium high acidity, medium bodied, dry. Traces of un-integrated new oak spices, red candied cherry, vanilla seeds, cinnamon stick with some complexity developing in the background.

Overall, this wine confuses me a little with its future direction but at the moment I like it enough to happily drink a few glasses if offered. 90. — 9 years ago

Marc Stubblefield

Wine Sales at Vino Carta and Kogod Wine Merchant

9.1

I've been on the hunt for this for a while now, and I'm happy to finally get some in my glass. The juicy cab franc with its spicy and peppery undertones does take in a Loire direction, but then the zweigelt adds a different sort of funk that pushes it into new territory. A lot going on here for such a quaffable wine, and it comes across as dynamic, alive and idiosyncratic. It also pushes all my happy buttons. Yum. Holla @Phil Ashton! — 9 years ago

Rob Tomlinson

9.1

Drank over Christmas Eve & Christmas night...spot on — 10 years ago

Naboth van den Broek

9.1

Some sweetness, almost SB in direction, but with the fattiness of an older gruner. — 10 years ago

Sean Herriott

9.0

Rich and powerful. If this is the direction Tuscany is headed, sign me up! — 10 years ago

Dorit Handrus

9.1

Please tell me this is the direction Bordeaux is headed again. Definite and expressive tones of green, vegetal cab franc, that pencil box woodiness we always hear about and hope to find, and a touch of barnyard rafters. Still super simple and straightforward too. — 10 years ago

with Jesse, Jason and 3 others

John Behrens

8.9

Aroma in the strawberry/cherry direction, with sun-dried tomatoes and an almost grassy herbyness. Cedar and meadow earth. Really engaging nose! Smooth full body with well balanced acid and fully present angular tannins that get grippy and chewy. A hot rush of cinnamon, baking spices and cherry go up the nose, ending in an astringent finish with little lingering flavor. This pairs hand-in-glove with smoky, heavily-seasoned BBQ pork. Fascinating and engrossing, but the lack of rich aftertaste keeps it out of 9+ territory for me. I need to age a bottle of this. Worth $15 for sure. — 10 years ago

Michael Mendes

9.0

Young but moving in the right direction. Bright, classic Sonoma Pinot. — 11 years ago

Benjamin Martin

9.0

Much better ladies. I like the new direction you are taking the malbec. 2014 is rocking! — 11 years ago

Brian McMahon

Sales Polaner Selections

9.2

Varietals: Chenin Blanc
Vineyard: Saini Farms, Dry Creek Valley AVA
Orientation: On the banks of the Dry Creek, North-South facing row direction
Soil: Sandy loam, gravely River bottom
Viticulture: Sustainable - Cordon trellis and dry farmed
Vinification: Fermented in stainless steel
Aging: Aged in neutral barrels for 3-4 months
Production: 408 cases - 750ml and 30 cases - 375ml
Notes: Pale straw color with green reflections. A lovely nose, with aromas of apple, Anjou pear, white jasmine tea and hints of peach and nutmeg. On the palate, orchard fruit and citrus layers mingle with green tropical elements, all supported by crisp, acidity, enlivening minerality and delicate white flower notes. — 12 years ago

Jason Rzutkiewicz

Wine Blogger Jason's Wine Blog

9.6

Wow! Perhaps I finally just had my champagne epiphany moment. Thanks to Scott @ K&L for steering me in this direction! — 12 years ago