Willie Carter

9.2

And now for something quite different. A champagne rebel and man of his own time and mind, Charles Dufour is producing some extraordinary wines. And they live up to the hype. A nice mild amber color with lazy, small bubbles. The nose is rather intense with a nice bit of nutmeg up front. Plenty of citrus fruit that never overwhelms but is certainly enveloping. Woodsmoke and wood, red apples, and just a little honey.

As natural as natural wine gets. Organic, hand picked, herbicide free. This most certainly tastes natural, in the best way possible. 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and an added 10% of Pinot Blanc. From beautiful Côte des Bar terroir and aged for two years on lees. 80% of the wine comes from the 2018 harvest with the remaining 20% coming from a perpetual reserve dating back to 2010. With an extra brut dosage of 3 g/l, there’s rather zippy acidity and innate purity here.

This really is one of those bottles that unique and highly, highly expressive. Very nuanced with outrageous complexity. The palate is fantastic with apples and a bit of cinnamon to boot. Every sip screams natural and terroir driven. Special, special stuff. Unique and gorgeous. — 4 days ago

Willie Carter

8.8

Pure gold in the glass. Bubbles are small but sparse in the Winewings Chardonnay glass. The nose opens up so fruity and inviting. It’s like that nice older lady who always stops to chat with you. Apricots are abundant, as are lemons and custard. Gun flint and minerals, with the rumor of pineapple. Plenty of autolytic notes going on here. Freshly baked bread begins to really take precedence eventually after quite a bit of time. A bit of butter and pepper for good measure.

100% Chardonnay from the Côte de Sézanne. From the 2016 harvest and disgorged in February of 2021 with zero dosage. The acidity is well toned and robust instead of bracing. This is an uber fresh champagne. Tastes so young but not infantile or undeveloped at all. So chalky on the palate. Remarkably so. Definitely the star of the show. Pears and green apples with stone fruit. Long, immaculately dry finish. This is so much fun. — 21 days ago

Willie Carter

8.9

A clear shimmering gold color in glass with vivacious tiny bubbles that go on and on. Very pretty and stately in appearance. An absolute burst of orchard fruits on the nose with pears and peaches. A touch of grapefruit with a dab of honey. These floral notes are a bit enchanting and delicate. Hazelnuts and green apples abound the longer it grows in the glass.

When I think of Cédric Moussé, I automatically think of Meunier, as he is one of the Masters of Meunier. This Blanc de Blancs comes from plots in Cuisles and Jonquery originally planted with Pinot Meunier. Disgorged in 2019 with an Extra Brut of 2 g/l, this thing sings and is so delicious. The acidity is zesty and the structure is well balanced. Full of life and power.

The palate is charming from first sip to the last. Mirroring the nose, those pears and peaches tantalize while yeast makes you smile. Very mineral driven and plenty of chalky goodness. Apples become dominant as times goes on. The finish has nice length with some unexpected white pepper. A unique entry in the Moussé portfolio and it most definitely belongs. — a month ago

Willie Carter

9.2

When we talk purity and honesty in wine, Larmandier-Bernier instantly comes to mind. An attractive light golden robe and impressive perlage. The nose is instantly striking with plenty of green apple and butter. Lemon and limes along with marzipan. Chalky and fresh, this is one that you really should just sit with for a while and appreciate. The pastry aromas are absolutely killer here. The citrus fruit notes are really prominent over time. So pretty.

A biodynamic Blanc de Blancs from masters of their terroir. Stately and august while remaining approachable. It’s a wine you want to be effusive. Full of personality, charm, and complexity there’s such power and grace with this champagne. Brilliant acidity but there’s no way I would mark this as zero dosage if tasted blind. Laser like precision here. So classy and luxurious.

In the mouth, this is pure joy. Pure finesse and excellence. Terrific texture and balance. Citrus and slight toasted brioche notes. There’s a really nice streak of spice towards the end, especially on the second day. This champagne may not be right for everyone but it’s certainly right for me. I love this. — 11 days ago

Willie Carter

9.0

Well isn’t this just a delight. A rather attractive, almost ruddy color. Translucent edges and long legs. The bouquet is so nice. More savory than fruity to be sure. Plenty of licorice and wet moss. Leather and lace, with a touch of violet. Those earthy aromas never fade, with fresh cut grass and idyllic spring meadows just for good measure. Dried cherries begin to take over after a bit of time. Still so fresh and alive smelling. A little blueberry compote and faded strawberries.

This is such a well balanced Burgundy at this point. Drinking very, very well at this age with plenty of life left in it. Medium bodied and smooth as all get out. The fruit is rambunctious and still youthful. I doubt this has even hit its prime yet. More delicious red cherries and blue fruits shine in the mouth. There’s an appropriate bit of oak, not too much, and restrained barnyard. I would have liked to see the funk set free but this is a wine that chooses not to dive headlong into that arena. Still, a seriously lovely pour. — 19 days ago

Willie Carter

9.0

Tasting this again and it’s even better the second time around. Medium gold with sparse, teeny tiny bubbles. Exquisite creaminess and richness which surpasses the effervescence. The nose is a bit stunning with light touches of warm, toasty bread and lychee. Lovely citrus fruit is a constant and consistent throughout this Blanc de Blancs. White blossoms and lemon zest. Slivered almonds as a faint whisper. Intoxicating.

Produced at a lower pressure than the majority of champagnes and aged for three years, this is a wine of pure finesse. It’s so elegant and magisterial. So smooth and delicate. Pure Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs and three Grand Cru villages of Cramant, Chouilly, and Oiry. Based mainly on the 2015 vintage with the balance from the previous, there is a definite sense of maturity here.

Fresh, fruity and graceful on the attack. Fresh herbs and chalky minerality. Baked breads shine through along with green apples and roasted nuts. A tremendous amount of bright citrus goodness that just goes on and on and on. Drink now. Or wait. You really can’t go wrong. Nowhere near the peak of its powers, but so luxurious right now. — 21 days ago

Willie Carter

8.9

These Andre Clouet champagnes are so damned charming and inviting. Beautiful Bouzy fruit and excellent technical know how leads to these fun, fun bottles. Pale, pale pink with a sparse amount of bubbles. So much fruit on the nose with strawberries and peaches. Orange zest, raspberries, and dried cherries. It just goes on and on. There’s a bit of brioche and a clamor of chalk. Summer flowers just because why not?

100% Pinot Noir primarily from Bouzy and some from Ambonnay. This is a pure and honest rosè with very little pretension. Delicious and tasty but certainly not overly sweet and cloying. Rich and straightforward, this isn’t an overly complex pour, but it is fun. The palate references the nose with a surfeit of blunted fruit, along with herbs and smooth vanilla elements. Marmalade and candy in the mouth. Straightforward and honest. This promises fun and it delivers. — 14 days ago

Willie Carter

8.9

Special Club goodness. If you know, you know. The bottles, the high quality, and just the immense fun of the Club Trésors de Champagne.

A distinctly golden hue. Bubbles are tiny but sparse. Nice creaminess and zestiness immediately. The aromas take time to fully express themselves. After around thirty minutes, a touch of key lime and marzipan begins to emerge. Unmistakably Pinot Noir, fresh cherries and red apples introduce themselves. The nose remains subtle, yet quite pretty. The floral aromatics are soft and lovely.

Pure Pinot Noir from Ville-sur-Arce in the Côté des Bar, this is from a tiny plot of land that is farmed sustainably. This is still just a baby of a wine and has such a long journey ahead of it. At the moment it’s drinking quite well and the lively acidity holds everything together. No rough edges at all however so this is an exceedingly smooth pour. Citrus fruits abound on the tongue with a bit of flair and sexiness. Biting minerality on the medium long finish. The Special Club does it again with yet another teeeific champagne. — 18 days ago

Willie Carter

8.7

A rather charming darker salmon color in the glass with light pink accents. The mousse is creamy and delicious and inviting. Medium bubbles. The aromas are deep and immediate with fragrant cherries and mint. Rhubarb and strawberry cobbler. Tangerines and minerality here. This is actually pretty outrageous how nice this is.

100% Grand Cru fruit from Verzenay, distinguished and refined. 70/30 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay with a nice amount of reserve wine and still red wine. The acidity shines through with the relatively low dosage of 4.8 g/l. Full bodied with much depth and character. Bottled in 2014 and aged sur lie with a disgorgement date of June 2017.

A focused and precise champagne, this is ready to drink right upon opening. Fresh and vibrant red berries in the mouth that remind you of a beautiful Spring day spent with Her. A touch of yeast, a touch of grass, and a touch of smoke. Long finish with minerals and spice. No need to overthink this one too much, just pop, enjoy, and take it all in. — 21 days ago

Willie Carter

9.0

Just look at this stunning thing. Gorgeous. That electric, deep red color with a little effusive perlage. From opening to finishing it off, you will continue to appreciate this hue. It’s so lovely. The nose is so alive and vibrant instantly. Blood orange straight out of the gate with ripe cherries for accompaniment. Butterscotch and licorice for days. There’s some really intriguing floral notes going on here, as well. One of the most distinct noses I can remember.

This is a powerhouse vinous wine that delivers on its promise. It’s an intense pure Pinot Noir champagne and the Saignée method just adds to the experience. Very Burgundian throughout, there’s a nice level of refinement and elegance here despite the electric nature. The acidity is well placed and sharp. Disgorged in November of 2019, with no dosage.

Erotically charged in the mouth, this continues to blow you away. Just the mere suggestion of spice initially on the attack. Those bright, sexy red fruits soon take over however. Juicy strawberries and bright cherries. Such a long, lusty brilliant finish that honestly leaves you wanting just one more drop. Single vineyard, single year and tiny production. All adds up to distinct excellence. — a month ago