Mason Balistreri

Sommelier, International Wine Guild; Balistreri Vineyard; Sales, Joy Wine and Spirits

9.6

It might shock you, but my favorite rosé is not French but instead comes from California! Blasphemy, I know - but Bedrock's Ode to Lulu is just that good. The difficulty is actually finding a bottle. For the last three years, I've only been allocated a case (or less) to sell here in Denver. It's possible you are one of the select few I've actually told about this wine... If not, now is your chance. This is the first year there's an "okay" supply. It won't last, but you should be able to get a bottle.

So yes, it's not French but it's made in the same style and method of Tempier Bandol Rosé- the most sought after, cult rosé out there. The name "Ode to Lulu" is actually an homage to the 4.5 foot tall, 101 year old woman named "Lulu" Peyraud (born Lucie Tempier) whose father gifted the Mourvedre heavy estate to her and her husband Lucien Peyraud. The wines they would go on to produce from the 1940's onward quite literally defined Bandol and put it on the map as some of the best rosés out there. She's still alive and presumably drinking plenty of wine.

This California-born "Ode to Lulu" is modeled after the great Tempier, but has some unique properties compared to it's French namesake. For one, the vines are EXTREMELY old. Tempier defined itself by focusing on old Mourvèdre and Grenache plantings, but even these French vineyards cannot compare to what Bedrock is working with in California. If you don't know, Bedrock is the winery of Morgon Twain Peterson, son of legendary Ravenswood founder Joel Peterson. Morgon grew up making wine and through his father has cultivated relationships with some of the most important heritage vineyards in California. The "Ode to Lulu" is made from Mourvèdre and Grenache planted as far back as 1888! These are some of the oldest plantings of these grapes around and make for unbelievable wines. Tempier's average vine age is around 40 years old today. Bedrock's is over 3x as old. Insane.

Morgon may be young, but he has a life time of winemaking experience. He started making wine with his father when he was 5 years old and hasn't stopped yet. In addition to absorbing his father's knowledge on heritage vineyards, he is a real student in the world of wine, earning a "Masters of Wine" designation (this industry's highest achievement). I've been drinking his wine for several years and I can say that his wine is made extremely thoughtfully and with expert attention to detail. This is true even with a wine as humble as rosé.

Unlike most California pink wine, Bedrock is not produced by "bleeding off" juice from a red wine. Instead, the grapes are picked early and separately at very low potential alcohols, and whole cluster pressed with low extraction. This preserves the freshness and acidity, creating a wine of clarity. In an old blog post I dug up, Morgon explains this idea:

"I pick at potential alcohols lower on the scale where brightness and lift still exist. This is not to say that fruit does not matter—I use Mourvedre from a block planted over 120 years ago for requisite concentration of complexity of flavor—but like fine champagne, the wonders of rosé lie in its unbearable lightness of being."

I agree with this idea of rosé and I think most people instinctively do as well. It's no coincidence that our best selling bottles come from provence. However, I urge you to pick up at least one bottle of this Ode to Lulu. It's a wine that's close in spirit to the best French rosé but made from vineyards that are American and unrivaled in age.

This is the fourth vintage of Ode to Lulu I've tasted, and I would say that's the most elegant yet. The 2015 was maybe my favorite for it's depth and I picked a few up to age, drinking my last bottle recently... This new vintage is great now, but it will reward with a short cellaring time. Honestly, if you can hide 2 bottles and drink them before fall or into next year, you will be blown away. Bandol rosé is a wine that improves dramatically over the course of 6 months to several years (Tempier Rosé is known to go decades). This bedrock is no different.

I can personally attest to past vintages gaining depth with time. How is this possible? Unlike other rosé which should be drank young, Bandol and Ode to Lulu are made of Mourvedre, a grape that is naturally reductive and resistant to oxidation. Further, the acidity is high and alcohol low. As the acidity starts to fall away, a depth and richness of character will emerge. In fruitier/riper rosé with more alcohol, this richness becomes too sweet and cloying... Not the case here. This keep balanced through time, gaining complexity while remaining refreshing. 

You should buy this wine. However, I think there is one more important facet to rosé that I should mention before you do... Rosé is not always about what's in the glass itself. Rosé is really an ethereal thing... It's more so an "essence" of terroir and vintage rather than a sturdy, hard representation like red wine is... Sorry if that doesn't make sense but what I'm trying to say is that sometimes rosé is more about the place and the people you enjoy it with than the exact flavors themselves. Of course, we cannot all visit the picturesque village of Bandol to visit Lulu Peyraud; but I think, with this sunny Colorado weather, we can come close. Perhaps Morgon said it better than I can:

"Proper rosé is refreshing, life-nourishing stuff that revives the soul... I drink as much for pure pleasure as for intellectual stimulation. In the warmer months there is something sacred about a late afternoon meal of cold chicken, fresh garden tomatoes, and rosé. It is one body in the sacred trilogy of rustic simplicity." - Morgon Twain Peterson

#rose #oldvine #lulu #tempier #bedrockwineco — 8 years ago

Beemeth Robles

9.5

Full body, black cherry, a hint of coffee, and a bit of tobacco on the palate. The nose reminiscent of black licorice, dark berries and a hint of oak. Yum! Though I would let it sit a bit in the glass as it comes across a bit cool in the nose die to alcohol content. Still delish for me! — 10 years ago

Anthony Lombardi

9.3

A perfect choice to share the table with the Easter lamb. Was in the decanter for about 2.5 hours & it's showing beautiful vibrancy to match the powerful dark fruit. Thank you @Morgan Twain-Peterson & @Chris Cottrell for making such great wine. Happy Easter everyone! — 10 years ago

Perry Riddle

9.2

Excellent. Expensive — 11 years ago

Neal Ferry

9.0

Not available in Nebraska....get to Iowa and bring some back to the fatherland....great bottle, has to breathe — 11 years ago

with Tom

Kayla Byers

9.3

Sangiovese wine club — 11 years ago

with Sarah

Kelsea Albrecht

9.5

Light, honeyed, refreshing — 12 years ago

Hernan Hernandez

9.0

Really good Zin. Went perfect with grilled food. — 8 years ago

Kirk F

9.0

Thanksgiving is always a bit of a dilemma on what to open when we host. If only because of the steal we got on these wines, i was ok having it open for the ‘masses’. That said, I’m glad to have kept most of it for myself! These are really nice wines, approachable, available and reasonably priced. — 9 years ago

Mike austin

9.0

2001 bright cherry and raspberry. — 9 years ago

Y Kwon

9.1

@Joel Peterson really really nice. Can't wait to get my hands on your second release. — 9 years ago

Jerae Knutson

DuMOL Member Services

9.0

Pairs perfectly with watching the tomatoes grow. Dry Creek. Sonoma County. — 10 years ago

Katie Adler

9.0

Started off with harsh alcohol scent but it mellowed out fast and was so smooth and bold. I love the berry notes! — 10 years ago

Anthony Lombardi

9.3

Big & beautiful. Rich & spicy. Can't resist a Bedrock/Carlisle partnership. @Morgan Twain-Peterson - lovely stuff! — 10 years ago

Kevin O'Connor

10

Holy shnikies! @Chris Cottrell @Morgan Twain-Peterson — 11 years ago

with Anthony

Michael McGeary

9.4

Thought for sure this was an old world wine. Olive with a nice bit of barnyard. — 11 years ago

with David and Sabrina

Gilles de Chambure

Master Sommelier & Educator

9.7

michael Havens venture with morgan twain peterson from carneros fruit — 12 years ago

Erin Pooley

Owner/Winemaker Good Luck Wines

9.2

Peterson Zero Manipulation (2011) with the wild boar pasta special. Like a big hug from your best friends on an almost winters day! #wishyouwerehere — 13 years ago

Neal Ferry

9.0

I’ll be your shot of whiskey — 8 years ago

with TwiLea and Jay

Doctor No

9.5

This is really as great a Californian wine as one can muster. It is rich without being decadent, redolent with sweet fruit without being heavy or glazed as so many wines are, complex without being overextracted, and sun-kissed without being alcoholic or pruney. With 20 varietals in this field blend, and in the flatlands below Monte Rosso and Moon Mountain, maybe calling this terroir-driven is a stretch. It is more history-driven, and a testament to the duo who have put the effort into preserving it: @Chris Cottrell and @Morgan Twain-Peterson — 9 years ago

Paul Weil

9.0

Smooth and creamy, this is a rich, chocolate red blend. The flavors are restrained and subtle, and the medium body is pleasant on the palate. There is a hint of fresh blueberries and some cherries in the finish. — 9 years ago

Elliot Rosen

9.0

Really delicious with a well peppered rare to medium rare steak. — 10 years ago

Charles Treister

9.0

Purchased at Locals Tasting Room in Geyserville,CA. — 10 years ago

Jonathan Ross

8.9

Very drinkable, opened up. — 10 years ago

Juan Menendez

9.2

This is one delicious Zin, and the story & struggle of the vines; romantic. Good stuff @Morgan Twain-Peterson !!! — 10 years ago

R00ster

9.3

Huge Cabernet! Tons of flavor with heavy dark fruit with no alcohol aftertaste. We loved this one and probably could have been even better if cellared another year. — 11 years ago

Rick K

9.5

Nicely done Joel Peterson. Feels like the dusty love child of youngish Giacosa Barbaresco and aged Cabassaou. Singular, special and singing. — 11 years ago

Matt Austin

Owner/Winemaker, Grosgrain Vineyards, Walla Walla, WA

9.2

I've recently had Dick Vermeil and Drew Bledsoe's wines but this one gets my vote for best football themed steakhouse Cab. Well done by Dan Marino and Damon Huard (and of course the winemaker Chris Peterson). This is way too young, but I look forward to checking in on these in a few years. — 11 years ago

Eric Macauley

9.0

Quite jammy, not a lot of tannins, really tasty to go with my ribeye. — 12 years ago

Roz Thomas

9.6

Like fizzy Ribena. — 12 years ago