Domaine Le Pas De L&
L. Aubry Fils
Ivoire et Ébène Brut Premier Cru Champagne 2009
Yeah, you've got it. It's to separate those nasty aromas that you might get from mercaptin in unhealthy reduction environments. The winemaker at Von Winning first used it around me and I stole it from him. It's pretty complicated and I don't totally understand it, but it starts from having sufficient nitrogen levels in the ferment to create a healthy yeast population, from there it involves longer term lees aging. The lees act as a battery to suck up oxygen, so they keep the wine fresh, but they also impart and aroma, kind of like autolysis. For me it's easiest to spot in Burgundy because Chardonnay is so neutral. It shows up as a sort of shaving cream and marshmallow fluff aroma, sometimes mint. It also compliments mild new oak. Coche or Roulot would be big Burgundian practitioners, but there are many others. In the new world it's easily spotted on the Chardonnays of Kongsgaard, Sandhi, Aubert, Ceritas, Kumeu River and Montelena, just to name a few.
^ that description is so helpful. Is PYCM in this camp, too?
Kit: yeah, for sure!
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